3D Printed Textiles

UNDERSTAND

THE PROBLEM

I believe that 3D printing is the future of fashion. With the current developments we are experiencing in this technology there are a great number of opportunities to create amazing new products and materials. Since we aren’t able to 3D print fabrics yet, I decided to team up with Cosine Additive and focus my thesis in designing flexible, adaptable, fashionable patterns. The intent is to explore the possibilities of creating wearable ‘textiles’ with structures that are designed in relation to function and materialization through anatomy, movement and utility. As far as additive manufacturing and the fashion industry are concerned they are mainly focused in accessories and conceptual sculptural pieces. However, these aren’t functional garments that adapt comfortably to the body and to human movement. Through this explorative project I hope that I can contribute into the future of fashion. 

 

Designer:
Maria Alejandra Mora-Sanchez

Photography by: BRIAN VOGEL

Photography by: BRIAN VOGEL

WAYUU

SPRING 2019 COLLECTION
EXPLORATION OF 3D PRINTED FABRICS
INSPIRED BY THE TRADITIONAL WAYUU TEXTILES

The WAYUU tribe is an indigenous community of the Guajira Peninsula in northern Colombia and northwest Venezuela. They are well known for textiles, crafts and patterns which are inspired by nature and the tribe's surrounding environment. 

MARACAIBO, VENEZUELA

MARACAIBO, VENEZUELA

EXPLORE

EARLY CONCEPTS                                        

Studies - Renders - Sketches

Mechanical Components & Fabric Weaving                              

  • During this stage I realized that mechanical components weren't practical for wearables and that the functional mechanisms must be incorporated within the design integrity of the textile pattern. 

AUXETIC PATTERNS

the solution

The collection explores ready-to-wear auxetic patterns which expand under longitudinal strain and contract when compressed.

  • This behavior gives the swatches various beneficial effects compared to the current ones in the market.
  • Their added value lies in form, function and the geometric arrangements of the patterns.             

THERMOPLASTIC POLYURETHANE (TPU)

THE Material

TPU FILAMENT

TPU FILAMENT

BENEFITS

auxetic patterns

  • Increased shear modulus.
  • Improved indentation resistance.
  • Enhanced plane strain fracture toughness.
  • Improved energy absorption properties.
  • Enable porosity/permeability variation with strain.
  • Ability to form synclastic curvatures.

thermoplastic polyurethane 

  • High abrasion resistance.
  • Low-temperature performance.
  • High shear strength.
  • High elasticity (500% elongation).
  • Oil and grease resistance.

 

FFF VS SLS PRINTING

  • My initial method of fabrication was SLS printing. After analyzing the pros and cons between both I decided FFF would be the best option for this project. 

TEXTILE COLLECTION

Adapts to body changes and body types

PROTOTYPING

MATERIAL Testing

Nylon - Ninja Flex - TPU

  • We tested different materials to see how the patterns behaved and attempted to print the patterns on stretchy fabric.
  • Testing took the most time and effort, but through each failure we became closer to our final TPU settings. 

REFINE

FASHION COLLECTION

FINAL SKETCHES

EXECUTE

Look no. 2 | Pattern 6 

LOOM

final dress

  • Loom is an expandable, adaptable, wearable and flexible 3D printed dress. It combines textiles and additive manufacturing by applying materials and auxetic structures that consider function and the human body. 

Photography by: BRIAN VOGEL

Re-Invent Materials

With the print time cut in half, testing new materials is faster and cheaper than ever. Learn more about materials testing possibilities with our Pellet Feed System from our CTO and co-founder, Andrew McCalip, in the video below.

Meet Cosine's CTO and co-founder, Andrew McCalip as he explains the different possibilities with the pellet feed system on the Cosine AM1.

Contact us to talk to a Pellet Feed Expert today.

Cosine at the Advanced Manufacturing Expo

Come see Cosine at booth 210 at the Advanced Manufacturing Expo happening in Grand Rapids, MI on August 24, 2017. Cosine's CEO and co-founder, Jason Miller, and our Director of Technical Support and Customer Service, Jacob Jacobson, will be there to showcase our recent developments on our AM1. 

Printing with 50% carbon fiber PPS

Our pellet feed system is making moves! Printing 50% carbon fiber Techmer Electrafil PPS with ease! Testing with our pellet feed system gets easier and easier every time. To learn more about the pellet feed system read our blog post all about it here.

Watch the video below to see our pellet feed in action with 50% carbon fiber infill pellets.

    • Tensile Strength: 19.0 KSI
    • Flexural Strength: 32.0 KSI
    • Flexural Modulus: 5.4 MSI 

    Contact us to get your project started today!

      About the AM1

      Our customers love the Cosine Additive Machine 1 (AM1). Here's a quick introduction to the machine and its capabilities!

      Have you seen our Youtube channel? Click here for more videos like this.

      Introducing the Pellet Feed System

      10x Cheaper Material on Your AM1

      After a year in development, Cosine is excited to release our Pellet Feed System and will begin manufacturing this product for the AM1. By switching to pellet, we are capable of running a wider variety of polymer resin systems at an increased deposition rate of up to 10 lbs/hr. Printing with pellets is 10x faster and 10x cheaper than printing with filament. Existing customers can extend the capabilities of their AM1 by upgrading to the Pellet Feed System. Contact sales@cosineadditive.com for more information.

       

      Pellet Head - 1.jpg

      Cosine at the Additive Manufacturing for Defense and Government

      Geoff Nordloh, CFO, Cosine Additive
      gnordloh@cosineadditive.com

      YOU'RE INVITED

      Meet Cosine at The Additive Manufacturing for Defense and Government in Washington, DC. Our CFO, Geoff Nordloh, will be there July 13-14. He will present our recentbreakthroughs, collaborations, and upgrades to our AM1 platform. Through our partnerships with NSWCC andOakridge National Lab (ORNL), we are expanding our reach into the government sector. Contact Geoff if you have any questions. 

      WE WORK WITH
      GOVERNMENT BUYERS

      Cosine already has established relationships with the SAIC. By the end of the year, our equipment and services will be obtainable through the GSA Multiple Awards Schedule.

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      Oarkridge signing August 2016

      CREATING BONDS WITH CRADA

      We’re collaborating with Oakridge National Lab (ORNL) and NSWCC to develop new technologies and improve methods in the 3D printing industry with our Cosine AM1.

      In these projects:

      • NSWCC requested improved data collection, and Cosine's solution was to develop and install a new bleeding edge motion system .

      • ORNL requested to develop a new pellet feed system. Cosine delivered a pellet extruder capable of printing 10 lbs/hr, allowing for a higher deposition rate and cost reduction with our open material platform.

      Trim Tool Case Study

      Complex surface geometries can mandate expensive and time consuming tooling solutions. Traditional solutions include CNC machining and composite tooling. Machined tooling is a trade space between raw material costs and CNC capacity. Offloading tooling work from heavily burdened CNC’s can open up capacity for higher value products. Composite tooling requires a series of pattern tools and back up structures(plywood crates or welded tubular frames) that can induce a variety of challenges. These processes can result in increased expenses, long lead times, consume valuable resources (CNC machine time), and families of patterns that need to be tracked and maintained in addition to the tools themselves. 

      Additive manufacturing enables users to create complex geometries from a variety of tough thermal polymers. Solid models are used to fabricate complex geometries directly, without the need for any secondary patterns. Often, the design rules for optimized additive manufactured tooling can be leveraged to provide ergonomic fixtures that simplify part processing and employ lower cost manufacturing solutions. 


      TRADITIONAL TOOLING

      Fiberglass Splash Tool

      • CAD/Reverse Engineer.
      • Produce pattern for fiberglass layup
        (CNC, splash or Egg Crate).
      • Support frame fab.
      • Fiberglass layup and frame integration.
      • Finish tool (edge clean up].

       

       

       

       

       

      Subtractive

      Fiberglass Splash Tool

      COSINE TOOLING

      Cosine Manufactured Tool 

      Ready to Print
      • Up to 1 lb/hour Material Deposition Rate.
      • $8.40/hour Machine Utilization Cost                (5yr amortization). 
      • $0.60/hour Electrical Cost.

       


      Material Cost (choose one):
      • $1/hour Base Polymer Pellet Material Cost.
      • $8/hour Base/Neat Filamentized
        Material Cost.
      • $33/hour Filled Filamentized Polymer               Material Cost.

      Additive

      Manufactured


      Manufacturing Method Comparison

      Cosine Machine Utilization Cost to Owners

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      Casting Industry Case Study

      Current Methods

      Traditional pattern methods are the most time consuming and complex processes in the casting industry.

      LONG LEAD TIME
      Long lead time due to materials and many complex steps.

      160 HRS

      160 HRS

      HIGH COST
      Expensive and
      resource intensive
       

      $5,000

      $5,000

      SINGLE SHOT
      30% of patterns received have mistakes and need to be reworked.

      Single Shot-01.png

      HIGHLY SKILLED LABOR
      Skilled labor
      Dying Trade

      high skilled labor-01.png

      Cosine's Solution

      The AM1 allows for faster, cheaper, and more efficient pattern creation.
       

      28 HRS

      28 HRS

      SHORT LEAD TIME
      Two day turn around.
       

      $52

      $52

      LOW COST
      Total cost to make a
      pattern with the AM1.
       

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      MULTIPLE ITERATIONS
      Making revisions is as simple as hitting print.
       

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      GENERAL LABOR
      Anyone can manufacture with the AM1’s intuitive quick-start process.

      By using the Cosine AM1, your company can provide a rapid turn around for your customers, and save money over traditional pattern making techniques.
       

      PATTERN CREATION TIMELINE

      Traditional pattern making takes 4 weeks and costs an average of $5,000. 
      Cosine’s AM1 3D printer allows you to streamline your process with the least amount of hassle. 

       

      TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR PATTERN MANUFACTURING.

      Contact us to receive a sample box and start your custom casting project.
      We are ready to work with you! 

      Part Replacement

      Parts will be sent to the client free of charge if the issue is under warranty.

      We keep a stocked inventory, so we'll be prepared to send you a new replacement part.

       

      PART REPLACEMENT TIMELINE

      If parts are too large or too complex for customers to install themselves, we will schedule a Cosine engineer to visit your facility to install the part within a week. 

      No Downtime Guarantee

      While your printer is under maintenance, we will perform your prints at our headquarters. We will send one of our Cosine expert technicians within a one week period. Standardized shipping is covered; however, all we ask of you is to cover materials costs. This warranty will ensure that your prints won't miss their deadline.
       

       
       

      Timeline

      Please note that although we ask you to cover costs of materials, be aware that you are normally responsible in covering your own material costs. Standardized shipping will be covered. Faster methods we ask that you cover. 

      Payments not covered:

      • Costs to ship faster than ground shipping (expedited)
      • Materials costs

      Cosine Academy Training Courses

      Cosine Additive is offering training for everyone who is interested in our printers! For more information, visit our training page.

      Bleeding Edge Motion Control

      Cosine is leading the pack in additive manufacturing by integrating our AM1 with a new motion control system. The new 64 Axis motion controller provides faster file uploads, improved stability, and a feature-rich platform for future product upgrades. The new system increases print head acceleration and has positional accuracy of 50nm, improving the print quality. If you're interested in upgrading your AM1, contact sales@cosineadditive.com.

      Features

      • 50nm positional accuracy with Renishaw linear encoders
      • Temperature compensation
      • Input shaping
      • Ethercat enabled
      • Up to 36,000 input/output channels
      • Higher accelerations
      • Higher rapid speeds
      • Higher print speeds / less print time
      • True 3D printing (simultaneous 3-axis printing)

      Our Z-Axis Just Got A New Upgrade

      After thousands of hours of run time, we've learned a few things we'd like to improve on our AM1. When we added the pellet feed system, we increased the load on our gantry significantly and pushed the gantry framework to its limits. An upgrade was necessary, so we chose the beefiest gearbox we could get our hands on. With our new box, our AM1 can carry up to 60lb loads and move at a faster pace along the Z axis than ever before! Contact us for more information.

      3D Printed Dress

      Expandable dress designed by Mariale Mora-Sanchez.

      Mariale Mora-Sanchez is one of our interns here at Cosine and an industrial design student from the University of Houston. She designed a 3D printed an expandable dress out of flexible material and printed it with our AM1. Here's her presentation about it.

       http://www.cosineadditive.com/

      Service Engineer, Felix and Maria, wearing her dress

      Service Engineer, Felix and Maria, wearing her dress

      Print of the day: Small Ball

      • ABS
      • .5mm Nozzle
      • Print time:  6 minutes
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